Now we're getting very close to my embryo of idea!īut I'm not very interested of the electric connectivity LEGO offers. (for me it helped to first put in the nuts and then carefully put in the bolt) Īgain it is kind of hard to get the little tiny nuts on the bolts, but it is doable. There is a little bit more room in this brick than there is in the 1x2 brick, but we still need to grind two sides of the nuts down. Just stick them through the holes and make sure that the negative lead is going kind of around it in a way that it will be trapped between the nut and the LEGO when we tighten the nut. It is great for glueing LED on LEGO, but it will also glue finger on LEGO or finger on LED or finger on finger or finger on face or finger on tool or. The tightness of the hole and the negative lead being bolted down was enough to keep the LED firmly in place. You might want to secure the LED in place with a drop of superglue. Be sure that the positive and negative leads aren't touching. You will need to bend the positive lead out of the brick. You need to bend the resistor underneath the LED and the other lead of the resistor in a way that it passes both 2.5 mm holes when you put the LED in the 5 mm hole. It is a kind of struggle to get the LED in the brick. (You might need the razor blade to clean it up) Put the brick right side up and drill away the stud with the 2.5 mm hole in it. Put the brick upside down and drill away the stud that is inside the brick, with a 4.5 mm drill. If you do this from the inside out, your drill will centre itself on the dent that is already in the inside of the brick.ĭrill a 2.5 mm hole in the middle of the side of the brick on the side where you didn't drill the hole in the stud. With the drill press you drill a 2.5 mm hole in the middle of one of the studs. Now I have like 50 for that price, but they need some slight modifying to fit in the brick. I found the right ones, but they where about $2,00 each. I found M2.5 bolds that have a head that is exactly the right size. In aluminum the result was much better, but still not what I wanted and how would I connect a wire to a piece of aluminum?!įinally I found a much easier and faster solution. It costed me a routing-bit and the result was terrible. Being new at machining, I had no idea that copper was so hard to machine. My first idea was to machine the studs out of copper. Now the bottom plate is finnish, we start on the top 2x1 black brick. It must be cheap (not counting the CNC I build for it) (so there must be a possibility for three poles: 5V, GND and signal) The design must be useful for different modules in the future, like sensors and switches. There must be a easy (LEGO-like) system to connect cables There must be come logic in the positive and negative poles It must fit in a 2x2 brick and be flush within the brick It must be 5V so is can be easily controlled by an Arduino micro controller (Tristram also did a LEGO-LED but with his own approach) My goals for the LEGO-LED: First I took the same route Tristran took and even build myself a MYDIYCNC to cut the bricks, but finally I decided to take an other approach.Ī nice first step in this project will be a simple LED in a brick. We tried to work together on this project, but it seemed impossible to synchronize our agenda's and get together so we both run our own projects. I had this idea for a long time, but to many other projects stood in the way until Tristram posted this instructable: DIY-LEGO I know LEGO has the Mindstorms-set that probably is great, but wouldn't it be even better (and cheaper) to hack your regular bricks into your own micro controller controlled LEGO? Well I think so!
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